Faculty Bibliography

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of soy proteins and peptides, which function in cosmetics primarily as hair conditioning agents and skin-conditioning agents-miscellaneous. The Panel considered relevant data related to these ingredients. The Panel concluded that soy proteins and peptides are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 274 polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. Each of the esters in this group is a polyether comprising 2 to 20 glyceryl residues, end-capped by esterification with simple carboxylic acids, such as fatty acids. Most of these ingredients are reported to function in cosmetics as skin-conditioning agents and/or surfactants. The Panel reviewed the available data and considered conclusions from their relevant previous reports, and determined that these ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-irritating.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 26 apple-derived ingredients, which reportedly function mostly as skin conditioning agents in cosmetic products. Because apple-derived ingredients may be obtained from different apple cultivars, the composition of ingredients derived from different cultivars should be similar to that of ingredients reviewed in this safety assessment. Additionally, industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients and concluded that 21 of these ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentrations described in this safety assessment. However, the Panel also determined that the available data are insufficient to determine the safety of Pyrus Malus (Apple) Root Extract, Pyrus Malus (or Malus Domestica) (Apple) Stem Extract, Malus Domestica (Apple) Callus Extract, and Malus Domestica (Apple) Oil.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 9 Centella asiatica-derived ingredients, which reportedly function primarily as skin conditioning agents in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed relevant data relating to the safety of these ingredients. The Panel concluded that Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Callus Culture, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture, Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture Extract, and Centella Asiatica Root Extract are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics, as described in this safety assessment, when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 11 Cocos nucifera (coconut)-derived ingredients, most of which are reported to function as skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. The Panel concluded that 10 ingredients, derived from coconut flower, fruit, and liquid endosperm, are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment, and that the available data are insufficient to make a determination of safety for Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Shell Powder under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

This is a review of the scientific literature and unpublished data that are relevant for assessing the safety of 12 Helianthus annuus (sunflower)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing similar constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Helianthus annuus (sunflower)-derived ingredients may contain allergens, including 2S albumins and sesquiterpene lactones. Industry should use current good manufacturing practices (cGMP) to limit impurities and constituents of concern. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) concluded that 9 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed- and flower-derived ingredients are safe as used in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment. The data are insufficient to evaluate the safety of 3 ingredients that are derived from other plant parts.

This is a safety assessment of 6 Eucalyptus globulus (eucalyptus)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. The reported functions of the Eucalyptus globulus (eucalyptus)-derived ingredients include abrasive, fragrance ingredient, and skin-conditioning agent (miscellaneous and occlusive). The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the relevant data on these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities. The Panel concluded that Eucalyptus globulus (eucalyptus)-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Lanolin is a complex mixture of high molecular weight esters, aliphatic alcohols, sterols, fatty acids, and hydrocarbons that has been widely used for centuries for its emollient properties. The purification of crude lanolin into lanolin wax and the processing of this wax into various derivatives began in 1882 and continue to this day with newer highly purified anhydrous lanolins. Controversy as to lanolin's allergenicity began in the 1920s and remains an issue. The most appropriate patch test preparation(s) for detecting allergy remain disputed. Detection of lanolin-induced contact dermatitis in diseased skin by patch testing on normal skin may lead to false negative results. Patients with a positive patch test to lanolin may tolerate use of lanolin on normal skin. Although lanolin is a weak sensitizer and the frequency of contact allergy to it in the European population reportedly is 0.4%, there are high-risk concomitant conditions: stasis dermatitis, leg ulcers, perianal/genital dermatitis, and atopic dermatitis (AD). Children and the elderly are also at greater risk of developing contact allergy to lanolin, partly because of comorbidities (AD and stasis dermatitis/leg ulcers, respectively). Finally, in the United States, non-Hispanic white patients are more likely than their non-Hispanic black counterparts to be lanolin allergic.